Claudia and I have just returned from eight days traveling through Munich and towns in Bavaria. From there we traveled to Pilsen and Prague in the Czech Republic and ended in Vienna. ( The hours spent in Frankfurt airport and the subsequent flight home do not count as vacation time.) We were so graciously invited to help celebrate a dear friend’s milestone birthday. My friend, Paul, is a bonafide beer connoisseur, I.T. professional, and borderline genius. As his entourage, we were to accompany him and his exceptional wife, Robin, on this pilgrimage to some of the most reverent shrines to the ” Barley Beverage”: Weihenstephan in Bavaria (the Vatican of beer), brewing in the same location since the 12th century; Pilsner Urquell, the inventer of the pilsner-lager style of beer; and many other lesser but significant creators of what Paul describes as ” life’s reward.” Claud and I were educated, enlightened, entertained and occasionally hung over, which we both considered a minor toll.
As a Mediterranean cook, the specialties of Bavaria and Bohemia are not easily adapted to REPUBLIC’S menu philosophy, albeit many wonderful and creative meals were enjoyed. And given the chanterelle harvest and farmers markets, Claudia’s vegetarian sensibilities were not compromised by the goulash, wienerschnitzel and uncountable varieties of “wurst” ( do they drink the water?-Ask about this when you next see me) that landed on the table.
I may not be able to incorporate recipes from our trip into our lexicon, but I was overwhelmed with the level of hospitality in all of the restaurants, hotels, tasting rooms, beer gardens and wine bars that we visited, as well as the European commitment to local and regional products in the cuisine. There is no centralized food distribution network like we have in the USA. In the cities we visited there is no Sysco, US foods, or other brand names that clog the alleys and double park in the streets. Local vendors for cheese, produce, meat, bread, beer and wine are being used and listed on the menus, and their products proudly poured in the bars.
The use of local products in a majority of European cites is not a business practice per se as much as it is a cultural imperative. Don’t get me wrong, I do not think that European countries are the perfect role models, but as a chef and “eater” we can learn something for sure, especially in their commitment to local, sustainable and historical cuisine.
It is easy to be hospitable when you are proud of your products and region, and excited that guests travel to experience your specialties.
At REPUBLIC we aspire to this model and try to emulate those restaurants that have been sourcing local for more years than I can count. We will always default to individual producers and attempt to define NH as a culinary destination based on its local bounty.
On your next visit to REPUBLIC, come to the Marble Bar and toast with a cool glass of Pilsner Urquell. Close your eyes, take a sip and imagine being on the Charles Bridge in Prague just after sunset. The castle is illuminated like Disneyland, and wonderful aromas of grilling meats are wafting up from the restaurants below on Kampa Island. The music of Dvorak fills the air and you will smile. When you open your eyes again you may not be in Prague, but you will be among friends who are glad to see you and you can always pay with your air miles card. Who knows, its only 6 1/2 hours away.
See you soon
Ed