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Archive for August, 2010

Stranger in a strange land…

Wednesday, August 18th, 2010

Issac Azimov, Rod Serling, Arthur C. Clark, Philip K. Dick, H.G. Wells, Frank Herbert, George Orwell: All members of an elite class of fiction writers that take us to places new to our imaginations. Some of their stories describe out-worldly locations, bizarre and unfamiliar cultures, and in some cases time travel. I have read works by all of these esteemed authors, but until recently could not integrate their notions into my personal reality.

I am not going to get weird on you all now, and I have not seen aliens, gods, or their mothers in Ryan’s misshapen bread, but I can relate to the multi-dimensional “reality” thing that some of these gentleman have spoken of.
As a chef responsible for the operation of a dynamic menu and high-speed kitchen, I must operate in two simultaneous time dimensions: The present and the future. As to the past, well, it’s over.

I am struggling to describe to you the stress that can be palpable as I am working feverishly to get the day started while on the phone to a farmer/raiser having the same time-vs.-need issues, and asking what my requirements will be four days from now, while I am portioning the day boat cod that was ordered two days ago and just arrived minutes ago, that will be gone an hour from now, requiring me to decide on a product 24 hours from now!

Yesterday, I was walking up from my basement prep kitchen/airless dungeon with my arms full when a customer on table 20 pulled at my arm and asked what we will be selling on Friday night? My mind went blank. I could not remember what day it was, or why I needed the brodo that was in my hands! I stared at the guest who was staring back at me thinking that this is it, Ed has finally lost it. Just then, like in the movies, I snapped out of it and rattled off: Skate wing, buluga lentils, braciole and eggplant neopolitan. I was back from wherever I was.

In business class you are taught the concept and methods of forecasting. I can do this quite well as it relates to my budgets and expenditures, but to forecast when and how many chickens will be arriving, if I am going to get the fish I ordered, what I will need on Friday for a vegetarian entree without knowing what is coming out of the ground, well this is not taught in any MBA classes. All this must be done while guests are ordering, a talented staff is plating, and my walk-in is emptying.

I do not want this blog to sound as me whining or venting because that is not my intention. I am what I am and I am doing what I love. My intention is to relay all the behind the scenes efforts involved in bringing to you products that do not come from the “man.”
I am dating myself for sure , but there was an episode of Star Trek where a time traveler was chasing his “parallel universe” twin. If they ever met, some sort of time-space tear would result and all life would cease. Only Gene Roddenberry could think of such a scenario. Still, I have this spooky image in my head of me running up the 20 stairs from the basement and colliding with “me” running down the stairs, both of “us” focused on the same task resulting in a head-on seismic collision, and WHAM! Manch-Hattan is vaporized.

Leaving science fiction to itself, and attempting to live in our own time and place, harvest in New England has arrived. Tomatoes, corn, kale, herbs, lettuce, cucumbers, zucchini, mushrooms, and not to mention hams, lamb and ducks are being delivered, albeit on an uncontrollable schedule. This is real time, and a very precious moment to be savored, for soon it will be the past. We must celebrate the present, revel in its bounty, and prepare for the next time it comes around.

See you soon,

Ed

Also:
Free parking every day after 5 PM and all weekend at the Wellington Trade Center Lot off of Lowell Street. Disregard the guard house, We have achieved detante’ with the owner.

Good times at the Marble Bar daily from 7-9. 1/2 price everything off the bar tower and cold antipasti.

Tomatoes!!!!!!!

Happy birthday Monica and Ricky

Ed

Be careful what you wish for!!!

Wednesday, August 4th, 2010

We have all heard this chestnut. When our dad or mom told us we shrugged. What can be better than getting your wishes fulfilled we asked in bewilderment? “You’ll see!” came the inevitable and totally baffling response. Well, after more years that I care to disclose
(56 actually and still upright and focused), I have realized the true meaning of that statement. REPUBLIC has been operating for almost 7 months and we are realizing substantial sales increases. Great! you say, and I, along with my banker and landlord, agree most heartedly. Yet tell that to our partners/farmers.

When we started our journey with REPUBLIC, there were no farm-to-table restaurants in the city. Some chefs (all credit to Jeff Paige), who had a history of partnering with local vendors, were making a point of using local produce and cheese producers, but Claudia and I decided to jump in with a belly flop. All or nothing with our proteins (chickens, ducks, pork, lamb and beef – Jamon an exception), regional with our dairy, Parmesan of course out of the loop, and produce as it comes available and can be delivered.

Our Farmers/Partners for the most part are small, family-owned, and operating on the cutting edge of survival. It is truly a shame that with our state’s agricultural heritage we do not cherish the efforts and rewards of our neighbors. Too much of our farmland has been paved over for “house farms” or, Zeus forbid, strip malls or Walmarts!!! The business paradigm for agriculture to date has been direct sales, farmer-to-consumer, with retail being left out of the loop. No distribution network! The consumer had to drive to the farm or wait until a market was operating in the area to buy direct.
So now it seems the fastest way for the farmer/raiser to get to you is through chefs like me.

Thanks to you and your ongoing patronage of REPUBLIC, I am asking the farmer/raisers to produce to their maximum and make hard choices as to who will recieve their limited supply of goods. In my mind a wonderful dilemma for them, but an issue for me. Being on the intermittent receiving end of exceptional ingredients is a frustrating position to be in for sure for any chef or business owner.

The answer is that more chefs must take part in the farm-to-table movement and financially commit to purchasing local ingredients. If the retail market expands, the farmer/raisers will then feel comfortable in increasing their investment in fields and herds and you, my guest, will benefit. When dining out, ask the provenance of your entree or salad. Restaurateurs are under an immense amount of pressure, and profit margins are small indeed, but any effort in procuring local ingredients whenever possible will benefit all other operators and you the consumer for sure.

In the short term, there may be spot outages at REPUBLIC of certain menu items for a day or two. If you come in with a craving for local whatever, and I was not able to procure that item, please give us your e-mail and I will make sure that when it arrives again (it will only be a day or two) I will contact you. In the meantime, watch around 10 am when John or Alison from Sweetest Day Cultivators come in with greens, squash blossom and flowers. On Tuesdays, Miles Smith arrives with beef and along the way stops by Kelly Corner Farms and picks up my lamb. Kerry from Milk & Honey Farms also arrives on Tuesdays with our chickens, ducks, and eggs. Joe, not only makes cheeses at Vermont Shepherd he also brings them to us. Valerie comes by on Thursday from Heart Song and delivers creamy goat cheese. Middle Branch Farms is now delivering organic produce to the city and we are on the receiving end of some wonderful produce. Tim from Kellie Brook Farm in Greenfield comes by on Thursdays with our hams, that we roast in house for our croques and omelets.

It is getting easier because of your ongoing support. Claudia and I thank you and are very grateful. By the way, if you know of any producers that are looking for an outlet, give them my name, just be sure that they have a truck and a teenage son or daughter to drop off the goods.

See you soon

Ed

Also:

Enjoy half price antipasti and beverages from our tower from 7-9 at the Marble bar every night
Free parking after 5 in the Wellington Trade Center Lot on Lowell Street. Do not be intimidated by the guard tower. I made a deal.
Ryan is now making bagels..

M_THURS 8-9 Friday 8-10 Sat 8-10 sunday 8-8