We have all heard it before, “Good things take time”, “Wait and you will receive”,” Rome was not…. ” I will not go on. As a uniquely impatient man, these old chestnuts make my stomach churn. I am way to busy and am always three or four projects ahead, but in regards to food the oven I must suck it up and wait.
If you look at our cooking line you will see a massive deck oven out of which comes all of Ryan’s baked goods, our flat breads and a majority of menu items are finished in its 500 degree heat. To its left is a small piece of equipment with four burners and a still oven not much bigger than yours. From this space, rarely heated above 250 degrees, comes some of the best things we do. The chicken confit ( After being dry rubbed and pressed for 24 hours) Is braised in oil and the remainder of the previous cooking liquids for 4 hours. We only purchase pasture raised and free range birds so the legs are large and flavorful . After a slow cook like ours, the meat is moist and rich.
As I write this (9:30 on thursday. I just got home) The chefs are talking from that 250 degree oven this weekends’ special. Miles Smith Farms short ribs. They have been cooking since noon. Short ribs are somewhat of a misnomer since they are from Highland cows and are the size of my hands. I hope to arrive in the morning, open the walk-in and get smacked with the rich aroma of the braising liquid. The ribs will be served with smashed, truffled potatoes and braising greens.
I am told that I can expect two sides of ” American red fish” tomorrow . It’s a snapper-like fish that is making its way up from the Carolina’s .
On Saturday I will be serving a classic French Bistro fish stew, soup d’ poisson. It was gone before 8pm last week, so I hope to have more on hand.
If you have not been in recently, you will see the walls festooned with Claudia’s graffiti photos from her recent show at the NH Art Institute. I am a bit prejudiced, but the work is stunning.
Another Claudia contribution is ” Bad Claud’s Guilt Free Love Burger” (Ask her to tell the story)
It is a veggie burger that would make a vegetarian weep and a meat eater take the bet. It comes, it goes quick and comes again. This weekend we will add a mini brunch menu and a Bloody Mary special! So come on by when ever you get up, get motivated or get bored. We’re here, the coffee is hot, the beer is cold and the wine is always on tap.

See you soon

Ed

You all have seen the TV shows, read the tell-all kitchen exposés, bought the cook books, heard how glamorous professional cooking may be and also how punishing. Disney made a cartoon mouse that can cook and Hollywood tells us that all kitchens are staffed with creatively cool people and, given the close proximity, involved in the occasional romance. It’s all of that and none of that. Cooking is unique and rewarding, back breaking and stomach churning, mentally challenging and financially precarious. Follow me for few minutes in the morning….

Good morning chef.
Good morning Jose. Were you busy at your other job last night?
No, not too bad.
Good, we have a lot of work today.
Good morning Chef. Morning Jose.
Hey Tim.
Produce arrive yet?
No.
Damn chef! We need that for our prep! We are so down!
I know, start pulling up the proteins from the walk-in and I’ll call.
Anybody seen where the dishwasher put the large rondo this time?
Good morning Brenda, Donde la Rondo por favor?
Good morning Chef, you have today’s specials so I can program them in the computer?
No, not yet. And without the produce there will be no specials.
Chef, is this lentil soup or the lentil base for the pilaf? It’s not marked…
The next time someone brings something to the walk-in and does not label it, in the fryer he goes!
Jose, your station is in good shape, start on the soup, okay?
Chef the fish company is on the line and the dry goods man is in the dining room.
Chef, I found the rondo, but without the produce I can’t start the stock.
Hello Chef, I’m coming down from Portland and I have some beautiful bass, want it?
How much do you have and how much is it?
I can let you have 5 lbs at $11.00 a pound
Forget it, too much.
Okay, Okay…$9.50
OK, send it in.
Chef, the produce is here.
Great, start on the stock and cut up the veggies for the specials, I want you to braise up some of the fennel and set aside the radicchio to grill with the bass.
What bass?
Pull the prep sheet from last night and lets see where we stand.
We need the aioli, the remoulade, the frites and slice the Jamon to open.
Man, this station is devastated!
I’m going down, anybody need anything from the basement? Last chance…
Where are we? Fish is coming, chickens need to get in the oven and the stock is on, rotate the dairy and start rolling out the dough, dry goods order needs to be in by 2:00.
Chef, phone call.
Who?
Don’t know.
Unless it’s my mother take a message.
Chef, it’s the bank.
Hello?
Yes sir, I just want to tell you that our system is down today and that you will have to make your payroll transfer in person.
At what time?
It has to be done by 2:00
That’s just after lunch!!!
Chef, you have the recipe for the lentils?
Order in!
What time is it?
Two bistro salads, two Panini, one pasta.
Lets go! Lets go!

In this small scenario I wanted to give you the feel of the pace of a kitchen. It is a pace that continues through the day with numerous spikes and valleys and the occasional fury.

The reward is when a guest comes to the open kitchen or at the front door when I am there, and says thank you and that they will be back. The entire day becomes a blurred memory, and I feel happy and successful. I cannot imagine doing anything else but what I do. I would not have the creative outlet, the addictive buzz, and that romance that has been going on for almost 30 years with Claudia.

This weekend look to the black board for seared skate in brown butter, grilled whole calamari with grilled escarole and white beans, and Bourride ( a seafood stew from Nice). If we are lucky, there will be braised beef in wine (beef deliveries depend on circumstances beyond our control).
See you soon

Ed